Cardiff's top brasserie effortlessly rides the crest of its Bayside wave

An important disclosure to put on the table before any food: today's review is brought to you in the befuddled wake of a Christmas party visit, and for that reason we might perhaps reserve the final judgement on Woods for another day. That said, if a restaurant can impress through the relative chaos of what approached a coup then that can't be a bad sign.

Cardiff Bay has gained the unenviable reputation as a gastronomic Disney World, overpopulated by overpriced chains with only the occasional glimmer of a pearl amongst fetid oysters. But Woods, one of the first inhabitants of the redeveloped Mermaid Quay, must surely be doing something right to have lasted this long and with a fine reputation amongst those in the know.

It is, in all senses, a brasserie, serving stylishly designed menus in a clean-cut interior with efficient staff. Prices are high, but so are the ambitions. And it's not easy to be ambitious with a Christmas lunch without offending the traditionalist. But even a die-hard turkey and stuffing man will surely give at least grudging respect to food served, well, impeccably. A perfectly grilled, soft, sweet goats cheese perches on stunningly cooked beetroot slithers, accompanied by a surprisingly effective duel between some raisins and capers. There's also a crispy duck roll filled with shredded meat like you'd never manage at home. For mains, the shin of beef is let down only by the bizarrely presented mash which looks like a cross between Play-Doh and Shrek's snot, and there's a beautiful mushroom strudel with oozing stilton topping (which does let off a bit of a whiff you should be warned). Full marks for the Christmas pudding too: beautifully light and zesty. And what a table wine, the Domaine de Bachellery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon has an earthy note you'd normally have to pay much more than £15 for. Somebody has clearly thought this wine list through.

So, the perfect restaurant. Well, almost. It's just not the friendliest of places, at least it wasn't on this (admittedly busy) occasion. The interior is brilliantly designed, but somehow over-designed, clinical even. And try to to avoid the upstairs. White and off-white in those quantities do send the colour balance in your eyes a bit squiffy after a while. But if you want great food, Woods is a safe bet. If you want to feel like they enjoyed giving it to you as much as you did eating it, well it might fall a tiny bit short.