There do seem to be an awful lot of restaurant awards around these days, and the South Wales Echo must be responsible for about half of them. Thai House sets great store by its 'Oriental Restaurant of the Year 2007' accolade (how long before that '2007' begins to look a bit desperate?). So, what to expect from such an illustrious institution? An authentic Thai experience of course, flavours bursting from the plate certainly, a real night to remember.

On first impressions Thai House scores very highly. The modest facade belies a vast interior. In fact, there seems to be yet more restaurant to be discovered as the evening progresses. The fitters did a good job too - clean, stylish, just like good Thai food.

I just wish I could be more effusive about the food itself. Set menus are probably the best way to go, although you may have to fend off their shameless attempts to steer you towards the 'Gourmet' option at £35 a head (that was a bit cheeky). The 'Chiengmai Treat' starts well, at least to the eye, with a big platter or spring rolls, fried toasts and chicken wings. Nothing unpleasant to report, except perhaps the toasts tasting of nothing except oil. At least the chicken wings brought some flickering smiles to the table. As for main courses, well they disappointed. The fragrant rice was anything but, and the pork and duck plates were just one-dimensional, and that dimension is sugar. Full marks for the green curry though. At last some depth to the flavour and an amazing consistency. And if such things take your fancy you can finish off with one of those big pineapple things with the flesh pre-cut and a lump of ice cream on it. Yum.

So why the slight downer? It's a shame. They do so many things right in Thai House and it could be a wonderful night. The staff dress as if to serve kings. Perhaps those kings prefer slightly underwhelming food and an evening listening to the Jackson Five on the sound system, because that's what they are going to get.