Stefano's
(7/10) 
So what makes a great Italian restaurant? Fresh food cooked with a passion (there's some of that)? An interior like a Tuscan trattoria (they had a go at that too)? Nope, for my money it's that wholesome welcome you get from the moment you leave the street behind, the feeling that you're a house guest, that Mama is going to make sure you fine and dandy all night.
And that's the Italian style Stefano's is trying for. They're 80% there too. Whether it was Signora Stefano on duty tonight I couldn't tell you, but nothing was too much trouble, nobody was in a hurry, and she was always there when we needed her. Whence the other 20% then? Well here's the rub, because you do get the feeling sometimes that there are two classes of guest in Stefano's. You'll be given all the attention you like until a real 'regular' steps in the door. At that point you could probably take your clothes off and take to the tabletop singing Nessun Dorma before they took any notice (how many trips makes you a genuine regular I wonder...).
Which is kind of a theme for this restaurant. Intentions are good, delivery is variable. Here's the summary of tonight's food:
Celery soup - boring, really boring. Yes, celery is a bit boring, but I've definitely had celery soup in the past which scored at least 1/10 on the zing scale
Ravioli with pancetta and tomato - a total joy, rich flavours, a near miracle
Baked Alaska - undercooked, meringue was just a slimy mess
That ravioli dish was such a tantalising glimpse of culinary talent. For a moment there I was, convincing myself all the other customers were speaking Italian, and we were sitting in a wonderful trattoria, somewhere in Tuscany, maybe just shy of 2am. And then I looked at the walls, which led my eyes to the ceiling. Some interior designer has gone insane in here. Putting up fake beams and painting ludicrous Italian maps on the walls really don't convince anyone. Why try so hard? It's like Ferrari installing gelato dispensers in their glove compartments. Nobody needs it. Why so over the top?
I feel bad now. Stefano's is certainly not a bad place to eat, and there are some lovely people there. If only it could be a little more understated in its Italianness. And if only I could be amongst that glorious rank of 'regulars'. We can all have aspirations....
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Comments
I would really like to sing the praises of Stefano’s. I first went on a Friday night when we fancied eating out nearby but hadn’t booked anywhere & all the usual places in Pontcanna/Canton for Italian (Cibos, those places down Cowbridge Road East that are just not up to scratch anyway) were all fully booked. Stefano’s let us in from the cold, and treated us like regulars! That night I opted for the pizza with Bolognese on, which I thought sounded a bit strange, but was lovely.
The times I’ve been since have always been great, and they’ve always been very welcoming. We chose Stefano’s for a family get together meal recently, a group of about 9 of us. They sensed it was a special occasion and the service was even better that usual as a result. They made the member of our party who had special dietary requirements feel really special but without making a deal about it, and she was catered for excellently. I recommend ordering anything from their secondi menu just so that you can get to eat the courgettes in batter – wonderful! The agnello (lamb) is really worth the price, cooked just right (pink inside) and with a really nice sauce, and as far as deserts go just order the sticky toffee pudding, it melts in the mouth.
I still think Casanova is the best Italian in Cardiff, but Stefano’s runs a close second!