Old Maindy Pub's gone gastro, but not quite the real deal

If the Conservative Party ran a pub it would definitely be North Star. This is a place reaching out to everyone, and we're all damned well supposed to be grateful to them.

There's a touch of the William Hagues about the furnishings, period chairs delivering a comforting sense of history yet nodding to the working classes with their clapped-out springs. There's a half-hearted attempt at glamour too with the Theresa May-esque Hollywood posters and sexy mirrors. Ken Clarke would be delighted to see a couple of real ales on tap, even if the uninspiring Timothy Taylor is hardly going to set the Hush Puppies dancing. And Dave himself would thoroughly approve of the hearty attempt to steal the young vote with a good old open mic session featuring many of Cardiff's aspiring, if not inspiring, musical voices.

All of which explains why nobody will be quite happy with the result. North Star's intentions are definitely in the gastro arena, promising 'exquisite food made from only fresh ingredients'. And there's also a gloriously pretentious promise to match beers perfectly not just to every dish but even to the glasses they are served in. Right, so you're telling me that the perpetually lack-lustre Everards is the ying to the chicken pie's yang. Right.

The results are, alas, variable. Amongst the starters, the antipasto is probably the best bet with a mozzarella combining juicy freshness with a brie-like tang, some zingy artichoke and salumi which would pass muster in most Italian trattoria. If only the salsiccie dish had matched it though - these sausages were desperately in need of some oomph. Of the main courses, calzone is probably worth a try (with a choice from any of the pizza selection), and the Spaghetti Putanesca makes a hearty attempt at combining some interesting flavours with a chilli hit balanced nicely with caper acidity. Shame about the burger though - nothing special to report here.

The problem is, a foodie won't find enough choice and excitement on the menu, a CAMRA man won't be impressed with just a couple of mediocre ales (although there's a decent range of Belgian beers in the fridge), and plenty of students will find it just that little bit staid. But, like the Tory message, this is an offering delivered with total confidence and just enough style to disguise the sometime lack of substance. Don't think about it too much, and you might find yourself voting for them more than you'd have expected.