Picture a scene (bear with us, it'll be fun).
You've recently spent the contents of your Northern Rock account on doing up Llandaff's restaurant known as 'the place that used to be Earls'. You're keen to impress of course, and then you get a big booking from a whole bunch of people who work just up the road for a slap-up lunch. This is the big one. Win this lot over and there's a good chance of repeat business for weeks to come.

Fortunately your restaurant's got a lot going for it. The painter/decorator's done a top job, the place buzzes when any more than half the tables are taken, and the chef fancies the idea of doing an ambitious tapas menu. He's quite a creative fellow too, wowing the punters with his fancy turmeric bread.

So why do the customers leave looking a bit glum? A bit underwhelmed. Sadly it's because a great menu doesn't equate to great taste. That haddock risotto was seriously one-dimensional, the hummus was bland, the pork rilletta just didn't have any texture, and the moules really needed aroma to lift that dull creamy base. The kidneys are damn tough too. At least those succulent quails make a few people smile, and everyone's full thanks to those generous portions.

I wonder if Mulberry really knows what it wants to be. There's a standard menu alongside the tapas, as if someone knows the tapas isn't going to do the job. Pity. Perfect that tapas and Llandaff Village would have a real treasure here. Not yet though.