Top Indian according to the rumour-mill, but disappoints in reality

Put your ear to the restaurant grapevine and plenty of people will tell you about the Indian secrets of the Mughal Emperor.

Getting there is certainly a bit of an adventure. Travel from the west along the A48 and you'll encounter an extraordinary moment of traffic madness where you appear to be travelling along the hard shoulder in the wrong direction. And be very careful - that hard shoulder can easily be exchanged for the fast lane in a moment of lapsed concentration.

Make it into the Mughal and you'll initially be impressed. The layout is as spacious as the interior design is well executed (except for the toilets - best to go before you arrive). The food comes as a bit of a disappointment though. We tried the Chicken Tikka Bhuna special at the (not very convincing) recommendation of a waiter, together with a Ginger Chicken. They came in sauces indistinguishable from each other and both laced with am overpowering taste of burned onions. Don't get your hopes up for desserts either, although the sight of not just ice cream in a whole orange but also ice cream in a whole lemon (thanks to the classy pictographic pudding menu) gives a certain degree of retro-pleasure if not gastronomic joy.

Beware the over-zealous waiters too. You're guaranteed to be asked for an update on your satisfaction levels after approximately ever 2.7 mouthfuls according to latest measurements.