Almost everybody who works in Milgi seems to have ginger hair. And it's gloriously appropriate. Milgi revels in doing things differently: plates are deliberately ill-matched, there's a rolling art installation down the side of the cocktail bar, and a raft of niche interest groups parades down to the yurt out back for almost nightly social gatherings (think storytelling, knitting, films - there's probably a tiddlywinks group there somewhere). Such tactics often backfire, typically a cynical ploy to get punters to pay over the odds whilst believing they are signing up to some social revolution. Thank heavens for their creative approach to the cooking.

Milgi's signature dish is the tiffin box, a pile of rainbow tupperware which you can assemble from a menu which will excite all fans of mathematical matrices. It's fun to order, looks great, and tastes, well, not bad. There are some disappointments such as the butter beans which surely confer plenty of nutritional benefit but don't excite much in the tongue department. Spiced potatoes a worth a punt though, and the black bean and coconut curry has a pleasant freshness about it. This is, though, food for the body worshipper rather than the glutton. You'll feel jolly noble after consuming all its wholefood goodness (especially if you have the pearl barley risotto - does that still count as risotto?), but perhaps not quite nursing the warm glow of an indulgent night out.

But there is another way. Enter the Pieminster pies, a recent addition to the menu. There's a great range of fillings and it's a cracking plate of food for just about any taste. Make sure you stuff yourself with some of Milgi's bread too. The range is fantastic, and you'll probably end with a beautiful little poppy seed or walnut number, even if you just ordered the budget option of soup.

Options are good if you're dropping in only for a drink too. Cocktails are imaginative but painfully expensive, and there's a good rang of chai lattes, coffees and all that jazz. Beer is disappointing though, with only one craft ale generally available, Bath Gem, and that in a £3.50 bottle. But it will be served by a lovely girl with ginger hair.