"Cardiff's favourite Italian" doesn't quite live up to the name

Calling all Italians - Cardiff needs a really good Italian restaurant. Not just good, really good. Many say that La Lupa is the answer. It isn't. But it does come quite close.

Where it scores is in the layout. Whoever designed it was a genius - probably some sophisticated guy from Milan in a tailored suit - because the total unpredictability of all those little bays and corridors is a joy. And for the most part the service scores too. Signor La Lupa himself (see right) may look like Manuel but he's on the ball, even if his female counterparts seem to operate in an impregnable world of their own most of the time.

On to the meal, and there are some good wines to be had. Try the Bardolino if you're after red - pretty dry but very characterful. As for the food, don't be too put off by the propsterous tourist names given to everything (e.g. Gamberoni Alla Fontana). There are good dishes to be had if you choose wisely, for example the salmon bruschetta which is a great way to start.

But what stops this being that 'really good' Italian is that so much of the menu is dodgy. I reckon my mussels (for starter) had seen the inside of a freezer for some considerable time and they definitely didn't appreciate the marinade of singed garlic. The Quattro Stagioni pizza wasn't bad, although I've never been a fan of piling all the ham on one side and all the cheese on the other. And are weird lumps of carrot some regional variation of Carbonara which I don't know about?

Then there are the desserts. Cardinal sin committed here - syndicated ice creams, and a photo-legend to match. Plus they aren't even from an Italian company. You'll get a choice of 3 very predictable 'home-made' desserts if you're lucky, but best bet is to take a look at the patisserie cabinet on your way in. There might be something decent.

All of which sounds terribly negative. But La Lupa is fun, it is cheap, it is reliable. It's just not quite the answer to the great Italian problem.