A good stab at the young-and-trendy Sunday lunch market. But could do better.

Journeys used to be really shite. This was the sleazy wine bar which endlessly offered live music and then delivered nothing of the sort when you'd gone to all the effort of finding the place. But now it's under new ownership which has embarked on giving the place a schizophrenic identity: slightly less sleazy wine bar in the evenings, and chill-out lunch joint for the weekends.

So what about this famous organic Sunday lunch? The best thing is that there's no menu. Your waiter will guide you eloquently through the options. That's the idea anyway, but unfortunately most of their waiters let either their desire to be super enthusiastic, or their faint grasp of the English language come between you and a full understanding of the food on offer. But let's assume you persevere, and manage to comprehend sufficiently to express some coherent desires for the needs of your stomach.

For our party of 4 it was Leek and Sweet Potato Soup to start, followed by either Roast Chicken or Beef, and there's a lot to speak up for. The bread with the soup tasted a million times better than it looked (Spar Sliced White), the Yorkshire Puddings were unbeatable, and the beef was a terrifically well-judged medium with an impressive mustard edge. There was a great selection of veg (leeks, parsnip, swede) and the wines are good value at a tenner each - we recommend the Brian McGuigan Shiraz 2003 from the eleven on offer.

Sorry, time for the niggles. The finger prints on the wine glasses would keep forensics happy for a day or two, the music level seemed to have a mind of its own, and the leeks gave a new meaning to the phrase 'lightly done.' And what is it with this chef and seasoning? Perhaps he missed the salt-and-pepper-day on his catering course, but the soup really had no bite at all. In contrast, the previous time we came here the vegetables tasted as though they had been gently simmered for a few hours in the Dead Sea.

Do save yourself for the desserts though. Stodgy cakes are the usual offering, but the 'French' Chocolate Cake was pleasurable and look out for the Pistachio cake too.