Unrivalled Indian vegetarian food, but bring your own fun

Excited, bemused, and slightly ashamed. That's a combination of emotions not normally felt after a great meal out.

Excited because Jikoni is an incredible discovery. Cardiff is blessed with some good places to eat vegetarian Indian cuisine (http://www.teaandbiscuits.co.uk/vegetarian-food-studio-review for example) but this one surpasses them all, for food at least. Seriously. Pay £6.95 for the massive thali set meal and you certainly won't be disappointed. But be braver and you'll be rewarded further. The Special Masala Mogo is a glorious concoction: fried potatoes (OK, chips) in a rich pepper and onion sauce packed with spicy joy. Then there's the alchemy of the Paneer Cheese Dosa with its golden cottage cheese hidden inside equally golden crispy pancake. You can have fun with the drinks too. The Special Faluda is said to be quite something (a mistifying concoction of ice cream and spaghetti apparently but it had run out tonight).

So, why bemused? Because more greedy restaurateurs would charge twice as much as Jikoni and tart up the dining room. Out would go the greasy-spoon-style ranks of tables and in would go a velvet-upholstered waiting area leading to a cluster of mahogany tables. It would be a shame, but then the current set-up is fairly dismal. With so many flat, shiny surfaces you'd think it was a mortuary.

Slightly ashamed because Jikoni is in trouble. They've already closed down the confectionary area and now they are thinking of opening - I can barely bring myself to say it - a MEAT room. Yes, Jikoni could soon be serving Chicken Tikka Bhuna. And it's your fault. Yes YOURS for not going there. So get out of your stupid comfy chair and fill your face with some proper cooking for once. Maybe then Jikoni will get the buzzing atmosphere it deserves which would make for an even better night out.