Decent pub, but can't make up it's mind whether it's a local or gastro

Everybody's getting into the 'gastro' game these days. And for a while it was a great move to wheel in an 'executive chef', chuck out all the old plates and put the prices up 25%, even it left the locals crying into their fancy ales. But in today's 'straightened times' even the bravest pub owners are getting the willies about such brave moves.

The Gwaelod-y-garth has got a lot going for it as a gastro location. It sits at the foot of the garth, a spectacular mini-mountain which used to be the centre of the village's famous iron business. Look out of the front and you get great views across the valley, and because the village is on a road to nowhere the only traffic you'll get if you sit outside is produced by locals rocking up for their pints. They've done a great job of the frontage too - on the rare occasions when it's sunny in Gwaelod you could almost imagine you're in a French bistro with the nifty awning sheltering you from the rays.

But step inside and you'll hear the gentle sound of the Gwaelod's confidence gushing down the urinal. It's perfectly pleasant, but it's a traditional village local, complete with uncomfortable chairs, small tables, a bar laden with beer memorabilia, and barren den with pool table. All of which is fine. We love local inns. But what market is this place going for?

The menu doesn't clarify things with its attempt to cover both attempts of the spectrum. At the bottom end there are the likes of steak pie and sausages&mash for £7, and at the other you can pay £18 for a steak, some hake or a trout. It should be an ideal solution, if only either of the price points were delivered particularly well. Sadly, it's all rather hit-and-miss.

There are some highlights. The house starter of prawn, crab and avocado salad is assembled perfectly, with a stunning tarragon dressing. It will set you back £8 though which might send you heading for a cheaper main course. Alas, the sausage and mash was a big disappointment with very average sausages and a gravy your mum wouldn't bee too proud of. The Glamorgan sausages were better, served with tasty chutney, although the chips were definitely at the oily end of the scale. But the biggest let-down was from the 'luxury' choices: a chicken breast stuffed with brie in apricot sauce. It was a good £15 but really lacking in excitement. At least it was washed down with one of the excellent beers (Otley and Wye Valley were both on tap).

You do get the feeling that the Gwaelod is trying to have the best of both worlds, and not succeeding at either. Locals might not be chuffed that half of their menu as gone out of range for a cheap night out, and foodies making a special trip will find the top of the menu doesn't deliver for the price. I'd probably stick with the beer if I were you.