Another cafe-in-the-back-of-a-gift-shop for Llandaff, but this one delivers the goods

There's a strong argument that Garlands should have a back door. For men. I'm not suggesting it should become a gentlemen's club (that couldn't be further from its vision), it's just that those customers not of the fairer sex may panic before they reach their goal. You see, like Jaspers before it, Garlands has opened its coffee shop as an adjunct to an existing business. I've seen what they sell in the rest of the shop, and still couldn't describe it in any meaningful way. Probably present stuff, or home decorations. Something like that.

Anyway, we are not here to review nick-nacks; we need to know is whether Garlands has trumped its novelty cafe neighbour. Which shouldn't be hard - Jaspers is not famed for any gourmet delights.

Fortunately Garlands has taken only one attribute from its rival, namely a lamentable lack of space. However, more accommodation is promised upstairs, and even in their miniature matchbox of a kitchen they do a rather terrific job. Sandwiches, bagels and soups are on offer, and the highlight today was a chicken curry broth. Next door you'd have to wait about 3 days for this to arrive, and you'd still suspect it was out of a can. But the Garlands offering was rich, warming, textured, everything a good winter soup should be. The bagel was very decent for four quid too, with a salad which was far above the level of token lettuce leaves. It had one curious touch though - a tangerine. A whole tangerine. Nice if you fancied a spot of afters, but also slightly weird. But weird can be good.

As for the coffee, well this has promise. They turn it out exactly as you like it, with a warm smile, and even a mini homemade mince pie for 45p. Impressive.

But what makes the place is a feeling that somebody really cares about food in that microscopic kitchen. It's not easy to turn out wholesome, fresh meals when there's not enough space to play a round of Travel Scrabble. So far they are doing brilliantly, and long may it continue.