The Conway
(6/10) 
Cardiff’s gastro-pub scene is definitely not what it might be. But the age of bream may be upon us. Pendoylan’s Red Lion set the AA sign writers to work a few months ago, and now Pontcanna’s Conway has flung out the quizzes and threadbare carpets for the chance to charge us twice as much for pie and chips.
And this is no half-hearted refit. The place was closed for a near-archeological probe behind the layers of cigarette grime, new fixtures and fittings, and a total food revamp. Fresh food from local suppliers is the new mantra (wow, original stuff) as the Conway is relaunched as a sister ship of the all-conquering Woods in Cardiff Bay.
Much of it is on the button. Menus change regularly (appearing on the blackboard only – nice touch) and there’s plenty of ambition to it. The fish&chips is among Cardiff’s best with succulent flesh, near-perfect chips, and a sweet mushy pea side (even if it had sadly received a near fatal overheat under the kitchen lights). There was a stunningly presented pie too, and steak came with a somewhat unusual but imaginative star anise sauce, and cooked damn close to perfection. Beer is solid if not thrilling (Greene King IPA and Rev James) and there are some very decent wines (try the Stoney Creek reds at £3/£4 per glass).
But was the change worth the sacrifice? Quite a bit certainly has been lost from the old Conway. Sure it had begun to wither under the recent ownership but there was still a welcome to be felt on those faded leather chairs by the honesty book-shelves and in the cosy cubicle seats. The Conway had character, it had a story to tell.
Sadly the book of the new Conway is still full of empty pages. Bright white empty pages. The interior is just too clean, too dazzlingly lit by some hideous energy-saving lamps, the paint smells linger and there’s even a large portion of door frame missing, still awaiting the return of a carpenter too eager to move on to his next pub refit. And much of the food scores more on presentation than depth. Bowls of hummous lack intensity, a tartare sauce fails to inspire, and a ‘Best-Buy’ jar of mustard comes completely empty.
Perhaps these are just additions to the snagging list, and a new Conway community IS beginning to build. But will it be ‘our’ Conway again? As the white walls slowly fade, the people of Pontcanna will decide.
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Comments
I think the New Conway is suffering from an identity crisis....it claims to be a gastro pub but I felt like I was sitting in an Ikea show room.
On to the food.....the vegetarian choice was the typical lazy offer of risotto (check out any vegetarian menu of restaurants and pubs across the UK and risotto will be the vegetarian dish of choice). Even more off putting was the fact it was a leek and potato risotto. Call me fussy but rice and potatoes don't do it for me (esp not when Im paying around £10 for it).
Luckily for me I have started to eat fish recently. So I went for the fish and chips and very nice it was too. However Im not sure how serving a big plate of cod fits in with their green/ sustainable credentials!! The appple crumble was tasty and a very generous portion.
In conclusion I welcome the concept of a gastro pub - Cardiff certainly need some but not sure if the Conway works in practice as one. I will go back but won't be rushing to do so.
I ate here with friends while visiting Cardiff for a conference. The food was excellent, very imaginative and beautifully presented. A selection of taster starters came on a wooden platter, ranging from tempura garlic leaves to a creamy goat's cheese with a beetroot crisp and a tiny glass of soup. This was followed by a crispy and succulent duck -- no mean portion, either -- on a bed of spicy lentils. A vegetarian friend had stuffed field mushrooms, which she reported as delicious. The deserts were also very imaginative, giving little explosions of taste from tart fruit to crunchy biscuit to soft creams. There was an interesting choice of wines, very reasonably priced. The surroundings were unpretentious, with a Scandanavian feel to the decor, which was light and minimalist -- a refreshing change from overdesigned and cluttered interiors. The staff were very friendly, and the chef clearly had a passion for sourcing excellent local produce for his creative dishes. I wish I lived closer, to be able to try the Conway's changing menu more often. Lucky folk in Cardiff, to have a gastro pub like this on their doorstep.
Have had some great experiences recently, and all that white paint seems to be gently fading which is just what The Conway needed. Very fine plate of chicken livers this week, and a terrific pumpkin soup recently. Beers generally sound, with a good stream of Otley brews coming on tap. Very deserving of an upgrade, duly awarded.