Another new funky canteen for Cardiff, and better than most

There was a rumour that James May had opened a bar in Cardiff. It was the Lego that started it: some kind of replacement for his now-destroyed Lego house? Leather chairs were expected, three dozen real ales, a ban on music, and furniture made from parts of vintage Italian roadsters.

James, if you're visiting Cardiff, don't visit the Arts Institute. For a start it's full of 'young people'. And some of them play music in a strange little 'dance area'. There's a paltry choice of real ales thanks to a near lock-out by Brains (you may well wonder why) and it's much more fun if you go there way past your normal bedtime. There is Lego though - a whole wall of it, ready to be decorated as your lascivious mind directs you.

For those who aren't light-aircraft-flying automotive journalists you'll probably be wondering whether Cardiff has space for another bar-cum-club. Sister-ship Milgi is stilling ruling Roath, Gwdihw has cracked the bottom of town and Buffalo is just a few streets away. But they all have their faults and the Institute is doing a good job of raising the bar. Not literally. That would be a problem for short drinkers.

In the food department they are probably ahead of the pack. There was a great goats'-cheese burger to be had today, with chips making a convincing claim for being hand cut, even if they were just on the soggy side of Blumenthal. Bath Gem was doing a guest appearance in the ale section, which was good news given all that boring Brains. There's plenty for the roaming eye too. Interior decorations I mean. Even the odd filing cabinet strewn about the place.

If there's one disappointment it's that the vibe hadn't quite taken off. It's always a bit tragic watching a DJ spinning her wheels to a deserted dance floor, but the bigger bands are definitely getting the punters in. So pick your night carefully and you might well be able to say you had a rocking time down the Arts Institute tonight.