Heart warming food from a top-notch country pub

'Can you recommend a dessert' we say to the waitress. 'Nope, haven't tried any.'
Any self-respecting reviewer should be disappointed after that. What hope for a good meal if the staff don't have a clue what they're serving up?

But somehow it didn't matter. This was a waitress with a twinkle in her eye, and certainly a wicked streak. Soon we were swapping star signs and having a good old tittle. And who could deny the virtue of a bit of honesty for a change.

The Bush is in a wonderful setting, in the heart of historic St Hilary but just off a major A road. Narrow lane gives way to country church and everything you'd expect from a rustic inn - a car park caked in manure, a low doorway to dull your senses and a totally haphazard seating layout.

There's a restaurant if you want it, but try to stay in the bar area. The menu is modest, but always changing, and simplicity is the philosphy. But they do it so well. Meat is cooked to perfection, served with heaps of vegetables, and the serving staff will find time to chat even when a panic's on. The range of beer isn't huge, but what they have is well chosen.

So back to that dessert. We gambled on Chocolate Fudge Cake and Vanilla Cheesecake. They were terrific. You really should try them dear.