This place has quite a few claims to fame. The 'oldest pub in Wales' (maybe) burned to the ground (well, down to the ground floor anyway) in 2004 before returning in February '05 complete with a new thatched roof. And not many pubs could claim to nestle between a cement works and power station yet still score when it comes to countryside atmosphere.

Things get even more interesting when you go in. The Anchor rivals the best of them when it comes to hidden nooks and niches and there's a mystery staircase in almost every room. Give the stairs a go - there's a 75% chance you'll get barked at for taking the wrong one. Great fun.

Staying in the bar, there's a good repertoire of beer. We were particularly glad to see Hereford Pale Ale on the pumps. It's a first-class pint. Can't tell you about the bar food - we decided to play a round of Staircase Roulette and head for the restaurant.

Which is where you might have some problems. Somehow the Anchor has employed restaurant staff who would be well suited to serving turnip soup in a Soviet street cafe. You know the sort. Service with a scowl, everything plonked on the table with maximum force, and how interesting that the previously promised set menu had curiously become a figment of our imaginations when it came to ordering. Incidentally, one plea to all waiters wanting to earn their tip: don't interrupt a diner in the middle of his riotously funny anecdote. Please. Never.

Trouble is, the food is completely fantastic. Even if the waitresses had Magnum moustaches and served everything accompanied with a punch in the face we'd have to recommend it. You won't get a better risotto for the money, vegetables are mountainous and well cooked, and there's a great Eton Mess for afters. Good sign to find the duck was off too - yes, they serve fresh food at the Blue Anchor. And we won't mention the peculiar toffee sauce served with the pheasant. Oops. Sorry.